Having only skied Stowe nine times (and almost half of those being pre/post-operation earned turns), I had yet to take the full measure of the Mount Mansfield. Despite that short coming of first hand experience and personal knowledge, I have seen enough of the potential first hand and the online reports second hand to endorse Stowe as the best overall mountain in the East. I can now backup that endorsement through first hand experience following my tenth day there.
Spring sprung early in New England with perfect sugaring weather this weekend. While I hope spring retreats at least one last time (and hopefully more) before spring skiing overtakes winter skiing for the remainder of the season, I can not say that I did not enjoy the heck out of today.
After much back and forth trying to determine where would be the best location today given the weather and snow conditions, I made the last minute decision to ski Stowe after I was already on the road. Mom used to always ask me where I was going when taking my road bike out for a spin. “I’ll find out when I get there” was my usual response. Call it a life philosophy, haphazard circumstance style, a wink to determinism but with a tongue stuck out at the same time.
I got a late start and arrived at the Mansfield Lodge just after 10:00 A.M. I knew today was all about chasing the sunshine and soft conditions, which would not be found at the opening bell. After a warm up run down Lord and North Slope, I was looking towards Chin Clip while riding the Lookout Double. My lift partner confirmed that conditions were much softer on the gondola side.
No doubt about it, Chin Clip was off the hook today with incredible soft bumps! Great lines were found with exception of the final pitch. I have not really skied bumps all season so my legs were tired and I was sucking wind. This was the best Chin Clip skiing I have done in my limited experiences at Stowe, this is one great spring skiing trail. I took two on the Clip and went in for lunch and would return for one more later in the day.
At noon time, I opted for a summit bid. I have hiked to the ridge before but not to the Chin. While hiking up the climbing gully, a snowboarder heading up for his first time inquired if I had done this before. That snowboarder and a few others decided to bail about two thirds up the gully. And I really respected that decision. I commented that “discretion is the better part of valor… but I have been known to lack the former” as I continued my hike past the snowboarders.
Unlike the snowboarders I passed though, I at least had a good reference point for a first time trip and had put in research time on what the skiable routes were and understood the basic navigation. Once I gained the summit, the landscape and the tracks pointed the rest of the way. Along with, as I had suspected would be the case, quite a few other skiers.
Dropping into Hourglass, I suddenly found myself reflecting on the fact that this was perhaps the most challenging line I have skied in a long time. Perhaps as long as two full years. Launching into a series of jump turns, I was trying to remember the last time that I was in terrain steep enough to require that type of skiing for an extended descent. Perhaps The Lip in Tuckerman Ravine. But The Lip has no crux when it is fully loaded.
While other skiers were side stepping and side slipping the crux, I decided that my pride did not have the better of my abilities and proceeded to jump turn right through the chute spanning barely more than a 178cm ski length wide. I actually skied the crux better than the wider bottom of the chute, as my legs begged for an end to the long string of jump turns. This is terrain I love. I rarely feel pushed by skiing any more. It was exhilarating to have that experience again.
For the rest of the descent, I found my way over to Hellbrook which must be the ultimate prize to score first tracks on. Such terrain offers a clear explanation why a hundred skiers or more might be hiking up before the lifts turn on any given powder day. Hellbrook was a steep irregular chute that reminded me very much of similar, slightly shorter, chutes at Cannon. The narrow descent was unrelenting with excellent steep pitch, winds, turns, interesting terrain features, and plenty of trees. This route from the Chin down to the bottom was unmercifully wonderful.
Once back at the Midway Lodge, I took an extended break before heading back out for two final late day runs down Chin Clip and Centerline/Hayride. By this late day hour, the sun was descending below the ridge making shady portions of the trails somewhat painful. It was quite clear that this was too early in the season for open until close spring bump action.
Suffice to say, my explorations of Mansfield have only just begun. I now know for sure what I have long suspected: no other mountain comes close. Though, every mountain definitely has its place.
7 thoughts on “Stowe”
Nice TR Steve! I have only been to Stowe a couple of times. Plenty of reasons to go back! I might get there this year but I’m running out of time. Black Mountain (NH) and Saddleback this weekend, if all goes well.
Great TR as usual. I skied it once back around 94/95 and I couldn’t wait to go back. Unfortunately their prices and elitist attitude have prevented from returning. Great mountain, but I’ll take my brown bag lunch and ripped ski bag to Cannon, Wildcat and Burke anyday. Cheers, John.
There are many cheap ways to enjoy $towe. My ticket yesterday shorted my waller only $40… less than full price at pretty much any mountain. You won’t find me paying full price any where if I can help it, but most definitely not at Stowe.
I do not find an elitist attitude at Stowe. In a matter of fact, while in the lodge and while skiing yesterday, I was stunned at how many straight skis and twenty year old books I saw. More than could be seen at a throw back mountain like Burke. There is a lot of money that goes to Stowe but there are a lot of people that enjoy the mountain for what it is, the quintessential east coast ski experience. I find Sugarbush to be far more hoity-toity.
Though Stowe Mountain Resort itself, with its monstrously gaudy slope side hotel and Spruce Peak development is perhaps the ultimate testament to east coast resort excessively and does edge out Clay Brook (barely) for least desirable base area, in my not so humble opinion.
It took me a little while to get over it, but it is important to separate the mountain resort from the mountain. Find your discounts and enjoy what the terrain offers.
“I rarely feel pushed by skiing any more.”
Time to go to tele full time Riv. 😉
Love that pic of Hourglass.
Not a chance, Harv. I considered it many years ago but at the last minute, I saw the light and went AT.
I did not get a pic of Hourglass. The first pic is at the top of the entrance to it, though.
Steve, I was just enjoying your Stowe report and saw Harv’s comment – A.T. is really an alternative to Tele in terms of B.C. access, but since it’s a fixed heel descent setup just like alpine, it’s not really an alternative in terms of being pushed by the skiing. We’ve injected a lot more Tele into our seasons mostly based on the incredible feel of the turns and the huge versatility in touring, but it could certainly serve as a viable option for those that want to be pushed. Most slopes are pretty much cake in terms of challenge for the typical advanced/expert skier, especially on modern equipment, so pushing oneself generally equates to skiing steeper, faster, tighter, etc., with the logical progression eventually leading to riskier and riskier situations. Changing the equipment is an alternative approach to that problem.
Thanks for the comment! Looks like you are skimming the archives, enjoy!
I think you make a good point regarding progression eventually leading to escalation of terrain. I don’t feel like I need to further escalate to challenge myself. That perhaps may stem from my fitness declining in recent years. I’m currently trying to recapture my abilities and prowess of 4-5 years ago rather than push to new levels. So I don’t feel like I’ve peaked and need to try harder and more dangerous terrain to progress. To progress is actually to get back to where I once was… which is going to require more work off the hill than on the hill.
That said, even when I get back to that level, I don’t think pushing the challenge to new levels is something that really appeals to me. I don’t like where that goes. I’ve made an active and conscious decision where to draw that line and I am comfortable with it… and comfortable knowing that the challenge now lies in the state of snow conditions and my off season weight loss and core development rather than the type of piste I prefer.
Though I will admit, before going A.T., I once thought exactly as you said… that the challenge of learning new equipment and a new turn would be welcome. That thought couldn’t be further from my mind at this point. I’d more likely rue having to spend time learning rather than enjoying turns at the level I currently do.